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Custom Wedding Dress & Kimono Upcycled Clothes | オーダーメイドウェディングドレス&着物ドレス

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/ blogs / blog / Tutorial: Heart Cut Out Dress

Tutorial: Heart Cut Out Dress

July 11, 2011 By Chie

As I promised, here is the tutorial on how to add a heart shaped cut out to the back of your dress! It’s pretty simple, and once you get the hang of it, you can make the cut out in any shape of your choice! Round, square, star shaped, whatever…variation possibilities  are limitless 🙂 I’m not terribly good at explaining things, so I hope this tutorial makes sense! If anything is unclear, please feel free to leave a comment, and I’ll try to answer your questions.

1. First, pick out your pattern. Recommended patterns are something that’s fitted to the bodice, and has a separate panel for skirt part. For this tutorial, I used the Heidi pattern from BurdaStyle. I recommend Heidi or Danielle (although you might need to modify the pattern a bit to fit to your bodice) from BurdaStyle. If you have a basic bodice pattern that’s fitted to your size, you can use that as well.

2. Cut 4 pieces of back bodice pattern (not center folded). For Heidi pattern, you are supposed to insert a side zipper on the left side, so the back bodice pattern says “cut 2, center folded”. In that case, add 1/2″ seam allowance to center back. You will need this seam allowance when turning the pieces inside out and connecting them together later on.

3. Prepare a heart shaped pattern. I typed “heart shape” in Google image, and printed out the type of heart shape I wanted. You can make the heart bigger or smaller, depending on your preference!

4. Fold the heart shape in half, and place the heart 1/2″ from the center back line. I like to have the heart cut out about 2-3 inches from the back neckline, but not too low, so you can wear a regular bra and not show the bra line.

5. Cut out the half heart from your back bodice pieces. Do the same for all 4 pieces.

6. With the right sides facing, sew the neckline, arm hole and half heart shape as the picture above shows. For the places that’s circled in the above picture, leave 1/2″. You will need this space to connect two back bodice pieces later.


7. Clip the seam allowances for curves.

8. Turn the pieces inside out and iron.

9. Now we connect the heart pieces together. With right sides of the outer pieces facing, pin the right sides of the seam allowances you left in step 6. Top picture shows the seam allowances above the heart and the bottom picture shows the seam allowances bottom of the heart shape.

10. Sew the outer back pieces together as you pinned in step 9. You are only sewing the outer side of the fabrics together, leaving the seam allowances of inner or lining fabrics open.

11. Iron, openning the seam allowances of the outer back bodice pieces you just sewed. Then you iron the seam allowances of the lining back bodice pieces so that the lining covers the seam allowances of the outer back bodice pieces.

12. You can either hand stitch the center seam in the back bodice pieces, or sew it with sewing machine. As you can see, I used my sewing machine to finish the seam.

You are done! Enjoy adding different shaped cut outs to your back:)

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Filed Under: blog, blogs, DIY

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Comments

  1. Forgotten Fancies says

    July 11, 2011 at 12:09 pm

    Thanks for the tutorial! I’ll definitely try it out in my next sewing project.

    • Chie says

      July 13, 2011 at 11:07 am

      i’m excited to see your variation! xo

  2. Paunnet says

    July 11, 2011 at 3:38 pm

    So sweet! Thanks for tutorial, Chie!

  3. Sunni says

    July 11, 2011 at 4:05 pm

    So darling! Lovely idea and super sweet! Thank you Chie!

  4. Caroline says

    July 11, 2011 at 8:03 pm

    Thanks for the tutorial! I have been meaning to make a cut-out back dress for ages. I am moving to Japan in 3 weeks so I need some clothes for the heat! I will have to ask your advice on fabric shopping in Japan 🙂

    • Chie says

      July 13, 2011 at 11:08 am

      hi caroline, oh wow that’s a big move! will you be working here? i can answer questions about fabric shopping in japan! feel free to email me:)

      • Caroline says

        July 13, 2011 at 8:10 pm

        Yes, I’m so excited! I’ve got a job in Yuasa, so hoping to find lots of great shops in Osaka and Wakayama!

  5. Ai says

    July 11, 2011 at 9:00 pm

    thank’s for sharing your expertise again chie 😀

  6. Eimma Miah says

    July 11, 2011 at 9:58 pm

    Ah thank you for this helpful tutorial, not only did you show me how to do the heart but also how to get a pro finish for the neck lines and armholes (I’m a begginer sewer) Your explaining was fine!

    • Chie says

      July 13, 2011 at 11:08 am

      hi eimma, im glad to hear that my explanation made sense:)

  7. Casey says

    July 12, 2011 at 11:54 am

    Lovely!!!! 😀 I’m going to include this in my weekly links, if that’s alright! 😉

    • Chie says

      July 13, 2011 at 11:09 am

      of course! thank you casey!

  8. nette says

    July 12, 2011 at 1:03 pm

    Love this Chie! 🙂 Reminds me on one fashion line of Luella in the past. I think they had similar heart shapes on the front decollete. I always wanted to try something like that, so your tutorial is just perfect right at the moment! Thanks for sharing!!!

    • Chie says

      July 13, 2011 at 11:10 am

      hi nette, i do remember the luella dress! it was a heart shaped cut out in the front, and some kind of print fabric in yellow! i love luella. so sad that they don’t come out with new collections anymore..

  9. Tilly says

    July 17, 2011 at 12:21 pm

    So cute! I’m adding this post to my sewing inspiration bookmarks. Might try to make a mini heart at some point… although those curves could be tricky if it’s too small, I guess…

    • Chie says

      July 17, 2011 at 10:24 pm

      aw thank you so much tilly!

  10. Ruth says

    February 15, 2012 at 8:52 am

    Thanks for sharing this!! Im a beginner at sewing so all the help is welcome!! This will be my next project!!
    Love your site/blog/shop!!!

    • Chie says

      February 16, 2012 at 8:22 pm

      aw thank you so much ruth!

  11. Casey says

    August 25, 2015 at 7:16 am

    Hi!
    I’ve been working on a blouse with a diamond shaped cut out in the front bust region, and I’m having trouble with the facing. It doesn’t stay put and the top part falls down through the diamond. Do you have any suggestions on what I should do to stabilize it so it doesn’t do that? I was thinking of attaching it to the neckline and/or armhole seams, but was wondering if there are other ways to do this to minimize the bulkiness, or if that’s the only option!
    Thanks!

    • Chie says

      August 26, 2015 at 6:49 am

      Hi Casey! Thank you for your comment. I don’t know what your blouse looks like, so I can’t say for sure, but I’m thinking maybe below can be the cause:
      1. Is the blouse loose fitting of tight fitting. I recommend to insert a cutout in pretty fitted design to really show off the cutout!
      2. Perhaps the fabric is light weight like cotton lawn? It might work better with fabric with some body.
      Hope this helps!

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これを着て、カフェに行ったら絶対目立ちそう😆☕ アップサイクルで生まれた、新しいファッションの形。 これを着て、カフェに行ったら絶対目立ちそう😆☕

アップサイクルで生まれた、新しいファッションの形。
コーヒー豆袋のジャケット × 着物リメイクのセットアップ。

一枚一枚、生地の柄合わせから縫製まで、すべて手で仕上げています🪡🧚
実はこの着物、裏地にも別布を仕込んでいて、羽織ると初めて見える色があるんです♡

ヴィンテージ素材に眠っていたストーリーを、
もう一度誰かの日常に届けたくて作りました。

If you wore this to a café, you'd definitely stand out 😆☕

A new form of fashion, born from upcycling. A coffee bean sack jacket × a kimono-remake set-up.

Every single piece is finished entirely by hand, from matching the fabric patterns to the sewing itself 🪡🧚 Actually, this kimono has a different fabric worked into the lining too — there's a color that only reveals itself once you put it on ♡

I wanted to give the stories sleeping in vintage materials a chance to become part of someone's everyday life again.

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Model
@emorylove33

Jewelry
@viviange

Make up
@elanoramua

#アップサイクルファッション #着物リメイク #サステナブルファッション
実はこのお洋服、今回のショーに入れるか自分では迷っていました。結構前に作った作品だったので。でもヘレ 実はこのお洋服、今回のショーに入れるか自分では迷っていました。結構前に作った作品だったので。でもヘレンと話す中で、これも一緒に見せようと決めました。

ヘレンと3週間近く一緒に準備を進める中で、コレクションの作り方、見る人を楽しませる魅せ方、ルック全体の組み立て方など、本当にたくさんのことを学びました。自分一人だったらこのルックスを入れる決断はしなかったと思う。誰かと一緒に作ることで見えてくるものがあるんだなと、改めて実感しました。
ヘレン、ありがとう♡

Honestly, I wasn't sure whether to include this piece in this show. It was something I'd made a while back. But talking it through with Helen, we decided to show it together after all.

Working with Helen for almost three weeks to prepare for the show, I learned so much — how to build a collection, how to style looks that engage an audience, how to put together a look as a whole. I don't think I would have made the decision to include this piece if I'd been on my own. Creating something together with someone else really opens your eyes to things you wouldn't see alone.

thank you Helen @designerhelen♡

Model @izumi_nishida

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair 
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up
@glam_by_jyoti

#KimonoUpcycled #SustainableFashion #DesignerCollab #着物リメイク #ものづくり
お客様からお預かりした大切な帯。 大切に保管されていた帯ほど、実は「日常でどう使えばいいかわからな お客様からお預かりした大切な帯。

大切に保管されていた帯ほど、実は「日常でどう使えばいいかわからない」という声をよく伺います。だからこそ、その帯の物語を読み解きながら、現代の暮らしに馴染むデザインに仕立て直すことを意識してます😌

パッと見にはわからないけれど、実は使いやすさを追求した仕掛けが隠れています。

ショルダーを付ければ、両手が空くアクティブなスタイルにも対応👜

あなたの思い出の帯も、こんな風に日常の相棒にしてみませんか?

A precious obi entrusted to me by a client.

I often hear people say they aren't sure how to incorporate their cherished obis into their daily lives. That is exactly why I focus on reading the story woven into the fabric and reimagining it into a design that fits modern living😌

There are hidden details that make this bag truly functional, even if you can't see them at first glance. By attaching the shoulder strap, it becomes the perfect hands-free bag for an active lifestyle👜

#upcycledfashion #着物リメイク #obibag #remake #sustainablestyle
飛行機と電車の中で作ったジャケットです✈️🚆 去年の夏の3週間、アメリカとヨーロッパを旅しながら、 飛行機と電車の中で作ったジャケットです✈️🚆

去年の夏の3週間、アメリカとヨーロッパを旅しながら、座席でひたすらチクチク🪡着物の裏地にキルト芯を挟んで、フリーハンドで刺し子して、日本に帰ってから染めました。

This jacket was made on airplanes and trains✈️🚆

Over three weeks last summer, traveling through the US and Europe, I stitched away in my seat🪡 
Kimono lining sandwiched with quilt batting, sashiko stitched freehand, then dyed after I got back to Japan.

Model
@kana_nakar

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Nails
@ms_muse_nail

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair 
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up
@glam_by_jyoti

#kimonoupcycle #sashiko #sustainablefashion #ReleasedReimagined
#刺し子
お客様から届いたステキな帯を、オーダーメイドのリュックにアップサイクルしました✂️ 吉祥文様が織り お客様から届いたステキな帯を、オーダーメイドのリュックにアップサイクルしました✂️

吉祥文様が織り込まれた錦の帯地は、黒地に金・白・紫…と、見る角度によって表情が変わる贅沢な一品。その美しさをそのまま活かしながら、毎日持ち歩きたくなる使いやすいリュックに仕立てました。内ポケット付きで、実用性もしっかり。

受注制作についてはプロフィールのリンクよりお問い合わせください💌

A client’s treasured obi has found a new life as a custom-made backpack✂️

The brocade fabric, woven with auspicious Japanese motifs, shifts from gold to white to violet depending on the light, a truly luxurious textile. I tried to preserve its beauty while crafting it into a backpack you’d actually want to carry every day. Complete with interior pockets for real-world practicality.

For custom orders, visit the link in our profile 💌

#KimonoUpcycle #SlowFashionJapan #WearableHeritage #着物リメイク #帯リメイク
着物リメイクをするとき、どうしても捨てられてしまうことの多い裏地。 薄手のシルクの手触り、もったい 着物リメイクをするとき、どうしても捨てられてしまうことの多い裏地。

薄手のシルクの手触り、もったいなくてサマーワンピースに生まれ変わらせました。

そのままでは物足りないのでアーティストの Riko Monma @rikoshurimonmaさんに染め直しをお願いしたら、一気に息を吹き返しました✨

数年前に作ったこの一着、今回の @designerhelен とのイベントで、コレクションに加えることにしました。

Helenからは色の組み合わせについていろいろアドバイスをもらって、自分だけでは絶対に辿り着けなかったような配色を試してみたり。準備の時間も、とても楽しかった😌

The lining of a kimono — often discarded when the fabric is remade into something new.
That soft, lightweight silk felt too good to let go, so I turned it into a summer dress. It needed something more, so I asked artist Riko Monma to dye it for me — and suddenly it came alive again.

I made this piece a few years ago, but for the recent event with @designerhelena, I decided to bring it into the collection. Helen gave me so much guidance on color — combinations I never would have arrived at on my own. The whole preparation process was just really, really fun😌

Model
@bethenny.x

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Nails
@ms_muse_nail

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair 
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up
@glam_by_jyoti

#着物リメイク #キモノアップサイクル #KimonoUpcycle #SustainableFashionTokyo #ReleasedReimagined
生地をよく見ると、お姫様が👸 金彩の御所車、菊、そしてひっそりと佇む姫。 裾に宿ったまま、また別 生地をよく見ると、お姫様が👸

金彩の御所車、菊、そしてひっそりと佇む姫。 
裾に宿ったまま、また別の人生を歩みだしました♡

Released. Reimagined. — Helen Castillo @designerhelen x Vivat Veritas 

Look closely at the fabric — there’s a princess👸

A gilded royal carriage, chrysanthemums, and a maiden standing quietly in the shadows. Still living in the hem, she steps into another life♡

Model
@_kasumi.y

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Hair 
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up
@glam_by_jyoti

Nails
@ms_muse_nail

#着物リメイク #御所解 #KimonoRemake #TokyoFashion #ReleasedReimagined
@allpress_espresso のコーヒーバッグで作りました☕️ Cafés do Bras @allpress_espresso のコーヒーバッグで作りました☕️

Cafés do Brasil 豆を運んでいた頃の文字が、そのままジャケットの背中に残っています。
着物だけでなく、面白い来歴のある生地をもっと取り入れていきたいと思っています✂️
素材:コーヒーバッグ × 着物シルク

Made from a coffee sack sourced from @allpress_espresso.

Cafés do Brasil — the stamp from its days carrying beans stays right there on the back. 

Kimono fabric has always been at the heart of what I do, but I want to bring in more materials with a history — things that have traveled, carried weight, meant something before they became a garment.

Materials: coffee sack × kimono silk

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Model
@emorylove33

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair 
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up
@glam_by_jyoti

#upcycledfashion #sustainablestyle #coffeesack #wearablestories #ReleasedReimagined
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